Sunday 12 January 2014

Happy Birthday!


Father’s Day

The people of Thailand know how to manage their calendars, every few weeks there’s a day off for something or other.  Father’s Day is a particularly big one; it falls on King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s birthday as he is regarded as the father of the people, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhumibol_Adulyadej).  Traditionally people wear yellow, the colour of the day the King was born.  Every day has it’s own designated colour in Thailand.  This year was a tricky one with the current political situation* and some people suggested other colours.  I decided to stick with tradition and claim ‘farang immunity’.  We celebrated Father’s Day a day early at school as the actual day is a national holiday when the school is closed.  My school is very active in organising performances so the children put on a show which included their Dads performing music and stories.  It was very sweet to see parents, students and teachers all collaborate to acknowledge the King and their own fathers.  It was even worth having the same music played on loop for a fortnight in an effort to teach the children two songs dedicated to the King.  Mothers Day is also celebrated in conjunction with Queen Sirikit’s birthday in August.  Outside of a political or patriotic agenda, I feel that these holidays bring people together and remind them of how crucial it is to take time with eachother.  I felt the same warm fuzzy feelings around Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012 when communities worked together to organise street parties and sat down to strawberries and cream with their neighbours and friends.  Yes, public money is spent and yes, not all citizens are fans of the monarchy but yes, we need something positive after all the recession and bailout negativity.  Sit down and have a cucumber sandwich for yourself (or, in Thailand, a kow pad gai).

I had my own selfish reason for appreciating the King’s celebration, a day off.  I swapped my lie in for a 5am rise to head to Bueng Boraphet, a large freshwater swamp just 15 minutes away by car which, in 2002, was declared as a wetland of international importance.  Apparently many species of birds can be seen but, to my untrained eye, they’re all simply called ‘birds’.  One particular feature of the swamp was our very reason for the early rise, we wanted to reach it before sunrise to watch the lotus flowers open.  We arrived to an empty building sat on the edge of the swamp and realised the perils of poor planning.  We had to call for a boat to come pick us up so we watched the sunrise from the edge of the water, DAMN!  Mai pen lai as they say, I have resorted to using this phrase when things go awry as, in Thailand, it’s bad etiquette to throw a tantrum…well, I suppose in any country really but this hasn’t stopped some…  We were collected and set off, engine spluttering, into the swamp.  It stretched as far as the eye could see with not a sinner in sight, we were the only visitors.  This is the beauty of living in a non touristy city, no queues, no whinging vacationers, no Starbucks.  

Above our heads flew flocks of, erm, birds.  We reached a section of the swamp that was absolutely covered with lily pads and lotus flowers.  The pink flowers, luminescent in the sunshine, made for some beautiful pictures and all you could hear amongst the camera shutters was the occasional gasp of awe.

The boat trip last two hours and delivered us back to the jetty where we had earlier grumbled beneath the sunrise, our trip had been as magical as we had hoped afterall.  We headed to the nearby aquarium where we were admitted free on account of the King’s birthday.  Bueng Boraphet Aquarium is built in the shape of a ‘krachaeng’ boat, which was the type of boat used to transport goods along the river to NS.  It contains a fish tunnel where over your head you can see various species of fish.  Again, my knowledge and vocabulary on this subject extends to “fish” but I found the tunnel to be pretty cool indeed.  All the information about the aquatic life is transcribed pretty legibly in English, should one want to extend their knowledge of the creatures swimming around them.  Upstairs there’s a less impressive bird exhibit housing dusty plastic birds shoved into an unconvincing and poorly lit display.  Some laying on their sides as if they got so depressed at being such crap imitations.  If only plastic birds could fly they could have escaped such a gloomy fate.  


After a delicious lunch of grilled chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice by the waterside, we returned to NS by car thanks to a kind member of staff over at the BB info centre.  During the hottest part of the day, the seven of us crowbarred ourselves into this guy’s hatchback with a broken air conditioner.  Imagine a can of sardines in a microwave…

That evening we paid a visit to our hard working smoothie man who was offering free smoothies to mark the birthday of his King.  He toiled all evening blending up refreshing fruit concoctions for nada, there’s dedication to the monarchy if ever I saw it.  We enjoyed ours under a beautiful sunset which glowed the sky pink and red.  Thanks for the free day King Bhumibol, I kinda like this monarch, and he’s into jazz too.


*I’d suggest looking it up rather than read me waffle on, I haven’t an educated opinion on the subject and I’m not particularly interested in politics anyway.

Images: Sinéad Millea.

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