Rollin' In The Deep

Loi Krathong

Stop the lights!!  I forgot to tell ye about Loi Krathong!  Get comfy and I’ll fill ya in. Loi Krathong is an annual Thai holiday whereby people make buoyant floral decorations, called Lois (loys) which they float on the water.  The purpose being to pay gratitude to the river for the rainy season.  It takes place in November during the full moon.  In NS it took place on November 17th both at the lake within the park and at the edge of the Chao Praya river. 

I had been told about the popularity of the ritual, and how Thai people use it to let their hair down and party so we booked a tuk tuk to pick us up at the new gaff nice and early…at least we hoped that’s what we asked for as our regular tuk tuk driver speaks absolutely no English except when he’s mimicking us and chuckling at our crap attempts at speaking Thai.  Sure enough he turned up with very smartly combed hair and chuckling a little bit more than usual…

He drove like his tuk tuk was on fire and pulled U-turns you wouldn’t see in any of the Fast and Furious movies.  It slowly began to dawn on us that our chauffeur had had a few ‘scoops’.  I clutched the tuk tuk for dear life as we swerved around trucks on the highway.  I vowed that if I was to get through this alive I would be good, even to Justin Bieber fans.  We arrived at the riverside where there were stalls lined up selling fruit, beer, freshly cooked food, fireworks, Lois and floating lanterns.  I safely dismounted hoping I wouldn’t encounter any JB fans; I wasn’t ready to pay my debt just yet.  I stopped at a loi stall and purchased a pretty one with pink flowers and a candle, aswell as a floating lantern.  As usual, the group of farangs attracted a lot of attention, with lots of hellos being hurled in our direction.  I think the locals were pleased to see us getting stuck in. 

We headed down to the water’s edge, lit the candles on our lois and floated them off with the current.  There’s a custom whereby people put money in their lois as an offering to the river spirits.  The Thais are very spiritual and even erect ‘spirit houses’ outside their homes in order to provide shelter for the spirits who, it is believed, can cause problems if left to roam free – rather like the custom of erecting bird houses in your garden back home.  The loi donation could be a nice little earner for river spirits if it weren’t for the pesky brutes who get into the water and wade around looking for donations to steal.  Although this is a situation which seems abhorrent to me, I live in a country with incomprehensible poverty so I shall desist judging someone who steals donations in order to feed their families.  But, should they spend the money on an iPhone then let the river spirits strike them down.

After watching my loi drift off down the Chao Praya river I made my way back up the bank where floating lanterns were being lit, along with sparklers that got attached to the bottoms.  As the hot air pulled the lanterns upwards with speed, the connecting sparklers fizzed and glowed.  The sky was so filled with light that it seemed like a theatre of fairies were dancing overhead.  The lanterns kept floating right through the evening as more people turned up with their well wishes for the river spirits.  I lit my lantern and let it fill with hot air til it gently nudged it’s way upwards bidding me farewell.  I remember trying to set these off back in Cork on my Dad’s 30^th anniversary with the most farcical results whereby lanterns were flying in all directions, towards rooftops, treetops, dogs, nothing was safe.  At the time it was pretty humorous as Dad was a bit of a joker and probably would have loved the chaos of the situation.  This time my lantern floated without a hitch, well almost.  The sparkler flew off and hissed to the ground where it was kicked away, landing right on top of my flatmate’s feet…in flip flops.  So having survived erratic tuk tuk drivers, hissing sparklers, self combusting lanterns (some weren’t so lucky) and fireworks manned by drunken locals I’d say we need to be on our best behaviour from now on…maybe even to JB himself.

Images: Sinéad Millea.

Fa Lalalalaaaa Ka

Christmas and New Year in Thailand

Back home there’s a tradition called The Twelve Pubs of Christmas.  As usual, for an Irish custom, it involves drinking copious amounts of alcohol with a pack of rowdy rebels.  For anyone who hasn’t heard of it, it’s a Christmas pub crawl where you visit twelve different pubs.  I decided to introduce it to the multinational farang residents of NS.  Decorated with Santa hats and Christmas bells we met at a bar, where the clever ones lined their stomachs, and set off on a route I had devised that would take us to eleven other bars around Sawan Park.  On the arrival of the bill I learned that pub crawls are a bit of a task in NS.  Bars serve beer to your table in large bottles and the waiting staff refill as they see your drink depleting so you never know how much you’ve drunk compared to your friends.  There’s no such thing as going to the bar for a pint or paying as you go, it’s all put on one bill.  So, for ease of calculation, bills are split evenly yet, with all large groups, there’s always a spot of confusion.  So we learned that a Thai pub crawl is more time, and brain cell, consuming than an Irish one.  But we decided to crack on with a ‘one drink per bar’ rule to speed things up.

The second bar was a little place decked out with wooden benches that played country and western music…Thai style.  It was a welcome change from the plastic pop the Thai bars usually pump out.  The table alongside us were certainly enjoying themselves, their clapping and stomping shaking every table in their periphery.  We had our one drink and called for the bill.  The waitress brought down two more drinks.  Confusion ensued as the clock ticked away our valuable drinking time. 

By bar four we were behind schedule so we decided that ordering shots would be the most effective way of completing our twelve pub assignment.  Not as easy as it sounds, the concept of shots was lost on our perplexed waitresses so we decided to opt for a bottle of vodka between the group.  This had taken so long to communicate in our broken Thai that I was beginning to sober up.  So we downed a couple of vodkas and hurried along.

Bar five was a quaint little bar with a fantastic name, ‘Fine Thanks’, and a special offer on beer.  The staff were highly amused by our Christmas garb that they joined in on wearing our festive props, my Santa hat eventually ended up with the waitress who I’m convinced may be still wearing it, she was that excited.  We decided it was about time for some Christmas tunes and, as the staff were already sucked into our Christmas vibe, we handed the waitress an iPod.  It was a surreal experience sitting in an open air Thai bar in the evening heat listening to ‘Do They Know It’s Christmas’. 

We waved goodbye, still with an agenda to get through and very little of the night, or our sobriety, ahead of us.  Bar six was a bit hazy if I’m honest, vodka shots were swirling through the BOGOF beers in my tummy and I was starting to lose my eyesight. 

Bar seven was the final stop of the evening, the infamous Bon Bon, where we danced like lunatics and attempted to balance out the fluids in our systems with a bit of water, but it was too late.  Inebriation had set in and the next morning was a bit of a struggle to say the least.  But, I was pleased with the final result.  Despite the obstacles of Thai bar customs, a language barrier and the absence of quick shots to speed things up (a blessing in disguise) we still managed to check 7 out of 12 bars off our list.  I think that’s an achievement, even in Ireland.

So, already in the Christmas spirit, with our tiny Christmas tree grasping onto the tonnes of baubles and Christmas lights we’d strapped to it, my flatmates and I begun our countdown to Christmas.  We indulged in festive movies, music and the obligatory box of Cadburys Heroes, but it still felt like a reconstruction of Christmas.  I was still looking out on blazing sunshine, watching beautiful orange glowy sunsets and walking around in the kind of temperatures Ireland gets for about a week in May, if they’re lucky.  It just didn’t feel 100% Christmas.  So I decided on an alternative plan for the day of the baby Jesus’ birthday, I was going to go for breakfast in the sun and a steak dinner, still centred around food but the ‘special occasion treat’ kind of food that you don’t get every day….and it was lovely.  It was so unlike Christmas, yet still a luxury, that I didn’t miss home like I thought I would.  Dinner was fillet steak and red wine at a price tag that would make my eyes water at any other time of the year, but at Christmas extravagance is mandatory.  I must tell you that the “extravagance” I speak of was still cheaper than a steak dinner at home but, here it’s my monthly utility bill.

On St Stephen’s Day (Boxing Day to you Brits) I packed my rucksack and caught a minivan to Bangkok, I was headed Ko Samet way!  KS is a small island south east of Bangkok, off the coast of Rayong.  I had an itinerary similar to that on Ko Tao – reading, suntan, the occasional cocktail and, this time, to ring in 2014 on the mother funkin beach, YES!  I spent as much time as possible in the sunshine, to hell with sunstroke, I was getting a tan.  I read, I listened to music, I swam, I drank beer for pretty much the whole six days.  The biggest difference I found with this holiday than any other was the food I opted for.  Usually a rather experimental eater, I like to eat the local food wherever I go.  This time however I turned into one of those infuriating travellers who insist on western food.  Morto.  In my defense, I have spent four months enjoying the local cuisine in NS and, although I do appreciate Thai food, one can get ‘Thai’d out’.  Anyway, I live in one of the best cities in Thailand for Thai food, I can have it any time I like, quite literally.  If I wanted chicken fried rice for breakfast it’s perfectly normal.  So, on KS where I could get my gnashers round a Mexican fajita, an English cauliflower cheese or an Italian pasta I ordered non Thai food at every meal.  The treat of pancakes for breakfast alone was worth the 9 hour journey down south.  Food glorious food!

 

New Year’s Eve swooped round yet I was still in a vortex of disbelief.  NYE in the heat?  On the sand?  Wearing a bikini??  I had to have a lie down, so I did…right on the beach with a beer and a book.  I stayed there til the sun sank down the horizon and dissolved into the sea.  That evening I ordered myself an Amaretto Sour and took myself down to the sand to wait for the year 2014 to approach, or 2557 according to the Thai calendar.  With the floating Chinese lanterns over my head, the pop and fizz of the bright rainbow of fireworks and the fire show compliments of the bar my first moment of 2014 was filled with light, may it last long into the year.

Sawat dee pimaï ka!

Images: Sinéad Millea

Happy Birthday!

Father’s Day

The people of Thailand know how to manage their calendars, every few weeks there’s a day off for something or other.  Father’s Day is a particularly big one; it falls on King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s birthday as he is regarded as the father of the people, (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhumibol_Adulyadej).  Traditionally people wear yellow, the colour of the day the King was born.  Every day has it’s own designated colour in Thailand.  This year was a tricky one with the current political situation* and some people suggested other colours.  I decided to stick with tradition and claim ‘farang immunity’.  We celebrated Father’s Day a day early at school as the actual day is a national holiday when the school is closed.  My school is very active in organising performances so the children put on a show which included their Dads performing music and stories.  It was very sweet to see parents, students and teachers all collaborate to acknowledge the King and their own fathers.  It was even worth having the same music played on loop for a fortnight in an effort to teach the children two songs dedicated to the King.  Mothers Day is also celebrated in conjunction with Queen Sirikit’s birthday in August.  Outside of a political or patriotic agenda, I feel that these holidays bring people together and remind them of how crucial it is to take time with eachother.  I felt the same warm fuzzy feelings around Queen Elizabeth’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012 when communities worked together to organise street parties and sat down to strawberries and cream with their neighbours and friends.  Yes, public money is spent and yes, not all citizens are fans of the monarchy but yes, we need something positive after all the recession and bailout negativity.  Sit down and have a cucumber sandwich for yourself (or, in Thailand, a kow pad gai).

I had my own selfish reason for appreciating the King’s celebration, a day off.  I swapped my lie in for a 5am rise to head to Bueng Boraphet, a large freshwater swamp just 15 minutes away by car which, in 2002, was declared as a wetland of international importance.  Apparently many species of birds can be seen but, to my untrained eye, they’re all simply called ‘birds’.  One particular feature of the swamp was our very reason for the early rise, we wanted to reach it before sunrise to watch the lotus flowers open.  We arrived to an empty building sat on the edge of the swamp and realised the perils of poor planning.  We had to call for a boat to come pick us up so we watched the sunrise from the edge of the water, DAMN!  Mai pen lai as they say, I have resorted to using this phrase when things go awry as, in Thailand, it’s bad etiquette to throw a tantrum…well, I suppose in any country really but this hasn’t stopped some…  We were collected and set off, engine spluttering, into the swamp.  It stretched as far as the eye could see with not a sinner in sight, we were the only visitors.  This is the beauty of living in a non touristy city, no queues, no whinging vacationers, no Starbucks.  

Above our heads flew flocks of, erm, birds.  We reached a section of the swamp that was absolutely covered with lily pads and lotus flowers.  The pink flowers, luminescent in the sunshine, made for some beautiful pictures and all you could hear amongst the camera shutters was the occasional gasp of awe.

The boat trip last two hours and delivered us back to the jetty where we had earlier grumbled beneath the sunrise, our trip had been as magical as we had hoped afterall.  We headed to the nearby aquarium where we were admitted free on account of the King’s birthday.  Bueng Boraphet Aquarium is built in the shape of a ‘krachaeng’ boat, which was the type of boat used to transport goods along the river to NS.  It contains a fish tunnel where over your head you can see various species of fish.  Again, my knowledge and vocabulary on this subject extends to “fish” but I found the tunnel to be pretty cool indeed.  All the information about the aquatic life is transcribed pretty legibly in English, should one want to extend their knowledge of the creatures swimming around them.  Upstairs there’s a less impressive bird exhibit housing dusty plastic birds shoved into an unconvincing and poorly lit display.  Some laying on their sides as if they got so depressed at being such crap imitations.  If only plastic birds could fly they could have escaped such a gloomy fate.  

After a delicious lunch of grilled chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice by the waterside, we returned to NS by car thanks to a kind member of staff over at the BB info centre.  During the hottest part of the day, the seven of us crowbarred ourselves into this guy’s hatchback with a broken air conditioner.  Imagine a can of sardines in a microwave…

That evening we paid a visit to our hard working smoothie man who was offering free smoothies to mark the birthday of his King.  He toiled all evening blending up refreshing fruit concoctions for nada, there’s dedication to the monarchy if ever I saw it.  We enjoyed ours under a beautiful sunset which glowed the sky pink and red.  Thanks for the free day King Bhumibol, I kinda like this monarch, and he’s into jazz too.

*I’d suggest looking it up rather than read me waffle on, I haven’t an educated opinion on the subject and I’m not particularly interested in politics anyway.

Images: Sinéad Millea.

Follow The Yellow Brick Road

A visit to Wat Kiriwong

 

What a slacker I am!  It’s been three whole months since my last confession.  I’m going to give you the run down so pay attention, I shall say this only vonce…

Cool season has hit, mind you the sun is still roasting the bejaysus out of me.  One not so smouldering day I decided to take advantage of the cloud cover and walk up to Wat Kiriwong which is perched up on a hill over the city.  This sparkling gold temple has been calling to me since I moved here, it’s visible from most of the city and on a sunny day it sparkles like the wonderful city of Oz.  I was lured up a winding road, thankful for the break from the heat on my forty minute walk.  

 
First stop was to Nakhon Sawan Tower.  For just 20 baht you can ascend the tower which has a viewing platform on the 10^th floor, 32 metres into the sky.  I do love an overhead view, makes me feel tall.  I peered down at the vastness of Nakhon Sawan, seeking out the places with which I’m already familiar and realised how much more of it I need to acquaint myself with.  

Next stop was Wat Kiriwong, the beautiful gold temple that enticed me up the hill.  I approached with care, mindful of gatecrashing any Buddhist ceremonies.  I was met with a man who spoke to me in perfect English, a rarity in NS.  He welcomed me and wished me a good trip to the temple, I immediately felt at ease and went exploring.  I’m not yet educated in Buddhist custom but I found it fascinating to watch people kneel to pray and light candles and incense around the various statues, some seemingly made with gold leaf which billowed in the breeze, very beautiful and peaceful to watch.  

    
Following a good old nose around I descended the hill, much to the bemusement of passers by.  The locals are often intrigued by the Westerners who walk around the city, as if they never knew what their legs were for.  People generally don’t walk here, and they find my usual mode of transport to be rather peculiar.  I guess that would explain the shocking state of the pavements around here.

After the holiday period I caught up with everyone and heard of an available room in a house my colleagues had found.  I snapped it up and within the week I was packing a Tuk Tuk full of my belongings to make the 2 minute trip around the corner to my new abode, a lovely three bedroom house, with hot shower, kitchen and big living room.  It was like moving into a palace in comparison to my bedsit arrangement.  I haven’t had flatmates in a while so I was dubious about sharing again but I was starting to talk to the wall over in my little room so I snapped up the chance to have some company.  So far so good, one flatmate has chocolate posted to her on a regular basis and the other cooks delish Mexican food.  I landed on my feet for sure.  Though, I’m not sure yet what I bring to the table besides sweary Irish colloquialism.

Images: Sinéad Millea.